Derby shoes and types
Nail these things and the world is your Blucher. There’s rarely a situation in which a Derby is the wrong footwear choice. “We do more Derbies than Oxfords these days,” says Little, whose top-seller is the open-laced Archie style. That’s because menswear is freer now, and the Derby is the shoe that makes the most sense when what we wear for work and play is so fluid.
Derby shoes
A derby is a style of boot or shoe that is characterized by quarters, with shoelace eyelets that are sewn on top of the vamp. A derby shoe can also be called Blucher.
Types Of Derby Shoes
Being simple and old, Derbies have been adopted by those interested both in practicality and looking good (which is all of us, right?). Helpfully, there’s an option for every man, whether he steers classic or statement. These are the key styles to know.
Classic Derbies
Plain, leather, simple. A pair of classic Derbies is easy to wear and care for. “Opt for slimmer, sleek styles with minimal stitch detailing,” suggests Farfetch menswear editor Tony Cook.
Men’s classic leather Derby shoes
Chunky Derbies
As trainers became more acceptable designers began to explore ways of making smart shoes feel dressed down. “Many have been amplifying the style to create chunky shoes,” says David Morris, shoes buyer at Mr Porter. “Brands such as Ami and Tricker’s have created thick soles with exaggerated proportions, which creates a fun yet rebellious feel.”
Chunky Derby Shoes for Men by Ami
Derby Brogues
Most brogues (or wingtips) are Derbies because the informal punched holes lend themselves better to casual styles. Be wary of anything too detailed, as it can make a versatile shoe feel ostentatious.
Men’s Derby brogue shoes
Derby Boots
As with their low-profile cousins, Derby boots tend to be more rugged. Think the kind of thing you’d wear to work in a factory, not an office. That said, most men’s boots have an open-laced construction, as otherwise they’re almost impossible to get into.
Men’s Derby boots
Three Ways To Wear Derbies
It’s possible to style Derbies pretty much any way you please. But if you’re stuck, this trio of looks will take a single pair from work to weekend to wherever you end up after.
Smart Derbies
Derbies are an ideal way of making a suit feel less stuffy. The shoe’s extra heft and rugged edge means that while they look great with a standard shirt and tie combination, you can also loosen up without looking like a politician on holiday.
A slim blue two-button suit is the Derby of the tailoring world; it’s still smart, but it also knows where the best afterparties are at, so you can style it in ways that would look awkward in black or charcoal.
At the business-friendly end of the spectrum, Derbies will comfortably book-end a dark block-colour or subtly patterned suit, especially if you pick black smooth leather.
How To Wear Derby shoes with a suit
Smart-Casual Derbies
If stuck for inspiration with Derbies, think utilitarian. They’re a shoe originally built for marching through mud, so pieces with similar DNA are always going to work.
Few fabrics are hardworking like denim, and that goes for trucker jackets as well as jeans. Trench coats and chinos, which both got their start in the military before being enlisted into civilian life, look great too.
Even in a smart-casual outfit, there’s room for manoeuvre. Suede Derbies will appear more laid-back than leather alternatives, as will anything with a contrast or heavy-duty sole.
